Daylight savings here recently really making it feel like winter is coming (75 degrees instead of 95). Time change means early morning light and fall means end of big souths and start of winter combo swells… Heading northbound soon so more to come from Baja
Archive for the ‘travel’ Category
Growing up in San Diego, most kids are taught in elementary school why littering is “bad”. Aside from the environmental factors, it’s considered socially taboo, especially so at the beach where it is obvious that the waste is going to go directly into the ocean. Unfortunately, in many other parts of the world littering is actually the norm due to lack of education and general cultural acceptance. I’ve been having a really hard time understanding it here in Mexico where there are incredible pristine beaches that people just carelessly contaminate with refuse. There’s no easy explanation. Perhaps because other major environmental issues take priority: polluted water, dirty air, deforestation, etc. Or maybe because everyone seems to do it without consequences- no old man yells at you, there are no tickets. Whatever the reason it really drives me nuts and I make a point to pick up as much shit as I can whenever I get out of the surf.
When I first went to Puerto I used to love to sneak down to La Punta on the south end of the bay when the waves out front got too big for normal humans. Also, being goofy foot, l took a special liking to the different moods of the often fun, but not really “world-class” point. On this recent border run mission, as much as I was shocked by the insane amount of construction that has taken place in 10 years- it’s like a whole other town down there now- I was more shocked by how different the wave was.
Locals were saying it was some of the best sand in years. The top of the point, which used to be all rock, was entirely filled with sand, so much so that there was a giant beach you could walk and paddle out from.
I knew that Labor Day weekend swell was way more than I wanted at Zicatela, so I made sure I was at the point at sunrise.
2,300 miles when all was said and done. Burned through 9 (out of 32) Mexican states. Most would argue that’s quite an absurd distance to drive to buy a run-down car from a friend. But then they wouldn’t be taking into account the adventure of it all… more to come…
It’s been over 3 years since my last visit to the famous Mex Pipe and over 10 years since my first trip (can’t believe that one!) A lot has happened since then but the wave in all its glory remains the same. Just back from a hell-mission drive (more on that later) but had some great shots of the labor day weekend bombs coming through at Zicatela. The biggest day was pretty stormy and didn’t see anyone out until about 10 am.
Down at the bottom of Australia at the moment but not for chasing any waves…. my to be father in law passed away all too soon last Friday from stomach cancer at the young age of 57. Chris was a man of the sea- a huge sailor and lifelong surfer. He will be greatly missed but will always be with us in the wind and the waves and the great memories I have of him.
Was a rather slow June wave wise. A few low pressure systems sitting close to Manzanillo but not getting strong enough for real solid swell. Lotta rain here lately but in between when the sun comes out, there’s still some chocolate waves to be found.
And just to pair it up with some tunes… Muddy Waters himself, live in ’71
Not quite the view from the blacks’ cliff but the lack of 100 of your closest friends in the water will keep you jogging down the trail…
click any photo to enlarge higher res
It’s taken a while but I’ve finally got a handle on what swell angle works where and having put in the elbow grease to explore north and south it’s starting to pay off…