Goofy foots have a few different items on the places-to-surf-before-i-die list than those left-foot-forward kids. P-pass? No thanks. That right from Second Thoughts? Not really interested. The place from the picture stuck in the front of my 7th grade binder of a perfect emerald left peeling down a big tropical bay taken from a mountain? Yes please. The reeling wave in The Forgotten Island of Santosha? Where do I sign up. It wasn’t until a few years ago that I put it together to realize the wave in Santosha was the same as that photo in my school binder (can’t remember where I got this photo from but think it was a surfermag shot…)
Tamarin Bay. Perfect speedway lefts, notorious hard-ass locals. Not as difficult as the Seychelles to time, but major swells few and far between. The charts looked like it was going to be pumping so I jumped the flight. You win some you lose some and unfortunately the predicted swell needed more west in it. The bay was quite small so I got a car and charged further south and realized there was in fact a shitload of swell, but no takers for the outer reef known as One Eye (first two clips below). I was on a solo mission, no one out, no boat and only my shortboard so I decided to give it miss The last clip, with the boats, is the following day afternoon, after surfing myself silly since dawn. Not the waves I was hoping for, but damn rippable. Will definitely be back for the real thing.
Tags: mauritius surfing, travel
August 3, 2010 at 6:59 am |
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